FAQ's

Our bikes are sent either from our local South African warehouse or from our manufacturing warehouse in China.

It usually takes 2-5 business days under normal circumstances, and roughly 6-8 weeks for orders coming direct from the manufacturing warehouse.

You will receive tracking information once your product has shipped.

We believe that communication is the best way to solve the problem. Please contact us in time. To help you solve the problem as quickly as possible, please describe the problem in detail and provide photos and videos so that we can find the problem.

There is a reason why our bikes are 2/3 of the price of others.

At Cryusher we believe in delivering high quality e-bikes at affordable costs. Working with an online ordering model allows us to save costs and pass those savings onto our customers.

For peace of mind we offer a 14 day money back guarantee on online purchases. See here for more: Refund policy – Cyrusher SA

Our e-bikes are sold in select retail partner stores across the country, and any reputable bicycle dealer can service your e-bike regardless of where you purchased it. In fact we strongly encourage you to establish a relationship with your favourite local bike store to ensure your bike is regularly serviced and looked after.

One of the benefits of fat-tire electric bikes, like the Roam, Rover, Ranger and Trax, is their ability to ride in all-terrain. There are virtually no roads that are off-limits with Roam, Rover, Ranger and Trax! Their 4-inch fat tires give riders outstanding traction on even the most troublesome terrain. They can perform on wet stones, muddy paths, snowy hills to beach trails. 

Models are built to the IPX4 water-resistant standard. IPX4 is standard that indicates your bike is resistant to multi-directional water splashes, meaning it is okay to ride or park your model in rain. Light to moderate raindrops or splashes from a wet road will not harm your ebike, but be wary of harsher weather and rainfall conditions. Additionally, although models can ride remarkably in snow, that isn't to say it is as safe to ride during active and heavy snowfall.

The general rule of thumb is, if weather impacts your visibility and has the possibility to affect your bike's functionality, it is likely not a safe riding condition. With that in mind, safe riding!  

Generally speaking as long as you don't leave your battery for long periods of time completely empty and you top the battery up after each ride, this is all you need to do.

Making sure your ebike is set up to your comfort and liking is the key to a safe and enjoyable ride! There are no 'right' or 'wrong' ways to adjust your ebike during this setup process. Instead, we encourage you to read through the instructions first, to become familiar with the adjustment process, and then have some fun as you figure out what your most comfortable positions are. 

Brake Levers

There's two main adjustments you can make to your front and rear brake levers: their placement on the handlebar and the angle up or down. Cyrusher typically recommends having a straight wrist when gripping the levers. Loosen the bolts to move both brake levers inwards towards the center of the handlebar or further out towards the grips. Find a position that is best for your hand placement, then before you tighten, consider adjusting the angle of the levers since you've already loosened the bolts! That way, you'll find a position that doesn't cause too much bend in your wrists, avoiding wrist pain and an uncomfortable ride!

Shifter

After you've adjsuted the brake levers, next up is the shifter. The shifter, which allows you to shift between gears, is located on the driveside (right-hand side) of the handlebar. You may also adjust its placement on the handlebar as well as its angle, but please note that the shifter must remain on the driveside of the handlebar.  Simply loosen the bolt, find your desired position, and retighten!

Handlebar Angle

To adjust the angle of your handlebars, loosen the 4 fixing bolts near the stem of the handlebar. They are located behind the display in an X-pattern. Then, simply rotate the handlebar fore (upward) or aft (downward) to your desired position.  Please note this does not raise the handlebar, but merely positions it at an upward or downward angle. Re-tighten the 4 bolts which will lock your new position in place.

Stem Height (Adjusting Spacers)

There are 2-3 spaces located between the stem and the headset. More specifically, underneath the stem and right above the headset where you inserted the handlebars during assembly. These headset spacers will give you minimal room to adjust how high or low the handlebar itself sits; Moving spacers from above the stem to below it will raise your handlebars while moving spacers from below the stem to above it will lower your handlebars. Follow the steps in our article to learn how to raise ebike handlebars via adjustments made to spacers.  

Adjusting the display

The angle of the display on your ebike can be adjusted for a more comfortable fit. Two bolts keep the Full Color Display securely in place on the handlebar. Loosen both bolts with a hex key then adjust the angle of the display to your desired position. To finish, tighten both bolts to keep the new position in place. 

Adjusting the Control Pad 

The angle and placement of the control pad, which is connected to the Full Color Display, can be adjusted so that it fits your thumb best. Simply loosen the bolt on the underside of the control pad and reposition it. You can move it further left or right, and angle it higher or lower, on the left-hand side of the handlebar. The control pad can not be replaced on the right-hand side of the handlebar. Once you found your desired position, retighten the bolt.

Adjusting or Changing the Throttle Switch

The Cyrusher thumb throttle is left-facing on the handlebar. Since the throttle is designed to attach to the left-hand side of the handlebar controls, it, unfortunately, can not be unplugged, removed, and reinstalled on the right-hand side as it will be improperly situated. However, the angle and placement of the throttle can be adjusted so that it fits your thumb best. Simply loosen the bolt on the underside of the throttle and reposition. You can move it further left or right, and angle it higher or lower, on the left-hand side of the handlebar. Once you found your desired position, retighten the bolt.

Saddle Height 

Adjusting your seat height is quick and easy! Open the seat post clamp then adjust it to your desired height. Simply pull the seatpost higher or push it lower to find a comfortable height for you. Be careful not to pass the minimum insertion mark; The minimum insertion mark represents the most minimal amount the stem must be inserted, in order to safely stay in place. Once you find a comfortable height, close the clamp.

Saddle Angle, Fore, and Aft

Adjustments to the saddle aren't limited to just its height. You can also adjust the angle, fore, and aft to tailor your seat to you! First, we'll go over why these adjustments are important. Then, we'll walk you through how to make the adjustment. 

Angle - Finding the correct saddle angle for you is important for a couple of reasons. First, if it is angled too far back, you will feel as if you're slipping backward, not to mention this will put more pressure on your behind while riding. If it's too far forward, or down, you'll constantly be repositioning yourself during your ride. Not to mention, there will be tremendous pressure on your wrists from your weight shifting forward! 

Fore-Aft Position - The fore-aft position of your saddle refers to how relative you are, or are not, to the handlebars. Essentially, this is you moving the saddle more forward or backward. Finding the right position for you and your riding style will help to reduce pressure on your wrists, lower back, and behind, and even help to prevent you from hunching your shoulders forward! 

Saddle Angle, Fore, and Aft Adjustment Process 

Seat posts come with either one bolt or two bolts located underneath the saddle. First, inspect the underside of your saddle to determine if you'll need to follow the 1-bolt or 2-bolt process. Then read on!

1-Bolt

Loosen the bolt under the saddle, until it is quite free. Then, adjust the saddle to the angle and position you desire. Tilt it forward or back, and slide it towards the handlebars or away from them. Then, re-tighten the bolt.

2-Bolt

Loosen both bolts under the saddle until it is loose enough to adjust. The angle on two-bolt seat posts is adjusted on a pivot: If you loosen the front and tighten the rear, the front of your saddle will lift whereas if you tighten the front and loosen the rear, the front of your saddle will lower. You can also slide it forward towards the handlebars or away from it to adjust the fore-aft position. Then, re-tighten the bolts.

E-bikes are ideal for commuting. They carve through traffic much more quickly than cars and can allow a shorter commute time. You can use bike paths and shared-use paths instead of roads while riding some types of e-bikes, reducing traveling distance.

Your body will also thank you for the extra cardiovascular work. And because e-bikes assist you with a motor, you often won’t need a shower on arrival as you won’t be as sweaty.

Cyrusher ebikes are designed to comply with South African laws governing bicycles and as such no license is needed to operate one of our ebikes.

In South Africa, electric bikes are classified as motor vehicles if they can operate at speeds exceeding 45 km/h. This classification requires that these electric pedal cycles be registered and licensed, similar to traditional motor vehicles. As of December 2024, any electric bicycle capable of exceeding this speed must adhere to the same legal requirements as mopeds or scooters.

All our e-bikes will operate in the rain. If crossing a river or stream, then be sure not to completely immerse the motor or battery connection.

Another tip is to not jetwash the electric components of the bike. Pressurized water is often well beyond the design limits of the e-bike’s waterproofing. Instead, take a sponge and bucket and gently clean those areas.

As with all high-value purchases, it pays to get your e-bike looked after. Annual service at your local quality e-bike shop should cost R250-R500 with component repair/replacement costing extra.

If you’re handy with bike repairs, service costs will fall, but it pays to let an expert run their eyes over the bike every year. They might spot something you’ve missed.

Many do but not all. Under the Three Class E-bike System, Class 2 e-bikes have throttles and can travel up to 32 kph on throttle alone.

What are the differences between an e-bike, an electric scooter, and a regular bike?

• A ‘traditional’ or ‘analog’ bike has pedals, but no motor.
• An e-bike generally has a motor and pedals, and you sit on a saddle.
• An electric scooter generally has a throttle, no pedals, and you stand up while riding.

In most cases, electric bikes can be pedaled like analog bikes. There are two types of electric bikes:

• E-bikes with pedal assist (PAS)
• E-bikes with pedal assist and throttles

Both have a computer called a controller. A throttle on the handlebar will tell the motor how much power to give to the drivetrain.

With pedal assist, sensors by the crank will tell the controller how much additional power to give to the drivetrain.

When the path ahead is uncertain, a Fat Tire Electric Bike makes sure nothing stands in your way. From sand and snow to gravel and grass, Cyrusher’s fat tire e-bikes are built to give you confidence and control on any surface. Wherever your adventure takes you, these wide, rugged tires keep the ride smooth, stable, and fun.

What Makes Them Different

Our fat tire e-bikes combine stability, comfort, and all-terrain capability in one powerful ride.

• Oversized tires deliver unmatched grip and balance across all surfaces.
• Suspension systems absorb shocks, keeping your body comfortable on long rides.
• High-performance motors provide the power to push through tough terrain.
• Long-range batteries give you the freedom to go further without worry.

Benefits for Everyday Riders & Adventurers

• Ride Anywhere: Sand, snow, mud, or trails—no terrain is off-limits.
• Feel More Stable: Wide tires improve balance and boost rider confidence.
• Stay Comfortable: Tires and suspension absorb bumps and reduce strain.
• Explore More: Extended range lets you discover new places without limits.

How Cyrusher Helps You

At Cyrusher, we design fat tire e-bikes to give riders freedom without boundaries. Whether you’re cruising city streets, exploring backroads, or venturing into the wild, our bikes provide comfort, capability, and confidence—so you can
ride more and enjoy the adventure at every turn.

Not sure what powers the "assist" in your electric bike? The sensor is one of the most important — and least understood — parts of an e-bike. Here's everything you need to know.

What does a pedal-assist sensor actually do?

Every pedal-assist e-bike has a sensor that tells the motor when to help you. When you pedal, the sensor detects it and signals the motor to add power. The difference between the two main sensor types — cadence and torque — comes down to what they measure and, as a result, how the bike feels to ride.

What is a cadence sensor?

A cadence sensor measures whether you're pedalling and how fast the pedals are spinning. Think of it as an on/off switch: the moment it senses the cranks turning, it tells the motor to deliver a set level of power for whichever assist mode you've selected.

It doesn't care how hard you're pushing — only that the pedals are moving. Spin the pedals gently or stamp on them hard, and at a given assist level the motor delivers the same amount of help.

What is a torque sensor?

A torque sensor measures how much force you put into the pedals, hundreds of times per second, and scales the motor's power to match. Pedal harder — up a hill or accelerating away from a stop — and the motor gives you more. Ease off on the flat and it quietly backs down.

In other words, it amplifies your own effort, so the bike responds to you like a natural extension of your legs.

What's the difference between them, in plain terms?

• Cadence sensor: reacts to movement. Assist is more like a light switch — on when you pedal, off when you stop, at a fixed level per mode.
• Torque sensor: reacts to effort. Assist rises and falls smoothly in proportion to how hard you're pedalling.

A simple analogy: a cadence sensor is like cruise control that switches on the moment the wheels turn, while a torque sensor is like a responsive accelerator that mirrors the pressure of your foot.

How do they feel different to ride?

Cadence-sensor bikes tend to feel like the motor "kicks in" a moment after you start pedalling and provides steady, consistent power. Some riders love how little effort is required; others notice a slight lag when starting off and a more all-or-nothing delivery.

Torque-sensor bikes feel smooth, immediate, and intuitive. Power arrives the instant you press the pedals and adjusts continuously, so climbs, starts, and stops feel seamless and bike-like rather than scooter-like.

Which one is better?

Neither is universally "better" — it depends on what you want:

• Torque sensors are generally considered the premium option. They offer a more natural ride feel, better control (especially on hills and in traffic), and often improved battery efficiency, because the motor only draws the power your effort calls for rather than a fixed amount.
• Cadence sensors are simpler and usually found on more budget-friendly bikes. They're a great fit if you prefer a "set it and forget it" style of assist and don't mind a less dynamic feel.

Do torque sensors help my battery last longer?

Often, yes. Because a torque sensor only delivers as much power as your pedalling effort requires, the motor isn't always running at a fixed output. On easy stretches it uses less energy, which can translate into a longer real-world range compared with a cadence system pushing steady power the whole time.

Are torque-sensor bikes harder to ride?

Not at all — in fact most people find them easier and more comfortable. You still choose your assist level, and you can still pedal lightly. The bike simply responds more naturally to how hard you're working, which makes starting off, climbing, and cornering feel more controlled.

Still have questions?

If you're deciding which model is right for you, get in touch with our team — we're happy to help you find the perfect ride.